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In the mood for Italian? Maybe someplace new? You"re in luck.
The star captivate at Il Forno Italian Grill (428 Village Walk Drive, Holly Springs; 567-1800; www.ilfornoitaliangrill.com) is the namesake wood-fired oven, that was built in Italy by the eminent oven builder Valoriani. Co-chefs Antonio and Enzo Mari, first-generation Italian-American brothers with some-more than 40 years of total experience, take turns fire-roasting veal chops and espresso-rubbed pig tenderloins in the oven, and branch out specialties trimming from bucatini all"amatriciana to cioppino livornese.
Meanwhile, the Mari brothers" partner, master pizza bread maker Fabio Esposito, slips Neapolitan-style pies in and out of the oven as fast as they"re ordered. Notwithstanding the desirous charity and impressive, roughly to one side Italian booze list, Il Forno is a casual, family-friendly restaurant.
A couple of miles down the highway in Fuquay-Varina, an additional experienced hermit group shares kitchen duties at Bellini Fine Italian Cuisine (1436 N. Main St.; 552-0303). Abel and Adan Atauchi stay a bit closer to the normal path, however, with informed transport such as veal saltimbocca and seafood linguini with red or white sauce. The majority renouned plate so far is lasagna, according to Abel Atauchi, who proudly adds that the salsa is done from scratch. The Atauchi brothers additionally have a third partner: their cousin, Joe Atauchi, who runs the dining room with an air of Old World hospitality.
Robert Giuliani and Scott Morse arent brothers, but their loyalty goes behind to the days when Morse, a grill developer, was a unchanging patron at Giulianis pizzeria in Columbus, Ohio. Flash brazen a couple of years to Durham, where the dual teamed up to open Enzos Pizza Co. (2601 Erwin Road; www.enzospizzaco.com) in March.
Dough is done uninformed every day for the pies, that come in a far-reaching accumulation of commanding options from classical (featuring the Giuliani family recipe red sauce) to the Grecian Goat (kalamata olives, garlic, olive tapenade and goat cheese on a bottom of seasoned olive oil and cheese). Or emanate your own combination, selecting from a list of thirty commanding options.
The owners of Piola (141-100 Park at North Hills; 758-8059; www.piola.it) arent brothers, as far as I know, or even long-standing friends. But the restaurant, that non-stop last week in the new North Hills East complex, boasts a plain Italian pedigree. Its the initial Triangle place (another is slated to open shortly in Chapel Hill) of a sequence formed in Treviso, Italy.
The featured item is thin-crusted particular pies with scores of commanding combinations, from Moderna (arugula, uninformed tomatoes and shaved parmesan) to Copenhagen (a white pizza with smoked salmon, brie, parsley and mozzarella). The full of color environment is decidedly casual, and at the same time as worldly as the restaurants menu and fast expanding tellurian roots.
Greg Cox is the grill censor and food bard for The News & Observer. He can be reached at ggcox@bellsouth.net. Read some-more about the Triangle dining stage at /mouthful.| _______________________ |
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